Have kept freshwater aquaria since 1998 and marine aquaria since 2000, beginning with a 75 gallon coral and fish reef.  Our 12.5 gallon captive bred H. whitei aquarium has been set up since April 21, 2003.

Having gone through several changes, we currently keep five female whitei (our two males unfortunately died and we introduced three additional females a few weeks after their deaths), one small bright orange starfish, several snails of various species, and three hardly ever seen peppermint shrimp.

Three new female whitei introduced June 19, 2003.
A list of more pages of horse and tank photos is available below.
Photo taken June 22, 2003.

New feeder placed in the middle of the tank on the sandbed.
Horses are rounded up from elsewhere in the tank,
then food is placed in the feeder with a large medicine dropper.
Am currently experimenting with different sized food
so the smaller, younger horses are more attracted to the food.
Photo taken June 26, 2003.

Close up of our 12.5 gallon H. whitei aquarium with new feeder.
Photo taken June 26, 2003.

Details of our 12.5 gallon seahorse aquarium.
Photo taken June 23, 2003.

• White Female Photos  
• Dark Yellow Female Photos  
• Bright Yellow Female Photos  
• Medium Yellow Female Photos  
• Yellow with Black Female Photos  
• Miscellaneous Horse/Invertebrate Photos

• Black Male Photos
• Brown Male Photos

• Feeding Station Photos  
• Previous Tank Photos  

Tank:

• Hagen 12.5 gallon glass tank measuring 14.25" W x 10.25" D x 19.75" H.  Originally believed the tank was 14 gallons, but after proper measuring, I realize it is only 12.5 gallons.

Cover/Canopy and Stand:

• Tank has a Hagen sliding glass cover and metal stand base.

Heating:

• One Tronic 50 watt heater placed in media chamber of the AquaClear 150 filter.

Thermometer:

• One Hagen hang-in-tank glass thermometer which measures both F. and C.

Filtration/
Powerheads/
Skimmer:

• One AquaClear 150 with foam media and foam placed over intake to prevent seahorses or from being sucked into the filtration system.

Filtration System Modifications:

• A diverter made of two suction cups siliconed to a flat structure made of Lego has been placed beneath the water outflow area.  The diverter pushes the water out across the water's surface instead of allowing it to splash down into the tank which reduces bubbles in the tank.
• Media holder has been removed to enable heater to be placed in the media chamber.  A hole in has been made in the media chamber lid to facilitate the heater placement.

Powerheads:

• One Hagen 101 powerhead, on low setting, placed low at the back of the tank to increase circulation.
• No skimmer used.
• Have added a diverter made of Lego, suction cups and aquarium silicone.  Diverter is stuck to the back of the tank under the AC 150's water outlet to prevent water from going down into the tank.  When water hits the diverter, it is pushed along the water's surface with little water and bubbles going down into the tank.

Skimmer:

• No skimmer is used.

Cleaning Regime:

• On a weekly basis, AC 150 and 101 powerhead are removed from the tank for cleaning.  Foam media is cleaned in outgoing changewater.  Plastic parts of AC 150 and powerhead are cleaned in tapwater with a never-used-in-the-mouth toothbrush.  Delicate impeller chambers.

Lighting:

• Two 15 watt Envirolite bulbs in a Hagen incandescent fixture.  Ideally, bulbs will be changed annually.

Daily Photoperiod:

• Lights are on a timer to provide a consistent 8:00 am to 7:00 pm photoperiod, for a total of 11 hours daily.

Maintenance:

Tank Chemistry:

Live Rock/
Substrate:

• 14 lbs of mixed Tonga branch, Jakarta and Fiji live rock

Substrate:

• 2.5" of sugar-sized Aragamax sandbed

• Five female H. whitei are currently kept.

Length of Time these Seahorses Have Been Kept:

• Two female H. whitei, the first added to the tank April 23, 2003, the second added May 13, 2003, three more females introduced June 19, 2003.

Temperature Range for Our Seahorse:

• Ideal temperature range for H. whitei is 72 to 77 F.  I try to maintain this tank at 73-74 F.

Acclimatization Process:

• All of our captive bred H. whitei have been shipped from Seanic Aquarium in Ontario, Canada, and have usually been kept by this small seahorse supplier for at least one month in his holding tanks.  Because they are pre-quarantined, I believe they do not have to be quarantined before introduction to our main seahorse tank.
• Once any new horses arrive, they are placed in a one gallon plastic container.  I use our pH probe to initially measure pH in the horses' water, then use it to monitor the rise in pH when adding water from the main tank. 
• Water from main tank is added by using a turkey baster so the pH doesn't rise too quickly.  Once the container has enough water added from the main tank, a small Hagen 101 powerhead set on low flow is used to oxygenate water in the container.
• I continue adding water from the main tank.  To keep water levels constant, in the container, I also remove water with the turkey baster.  Water removed from the main tank is replaced with NSW that has been aerated for a day and has been heated to the same temperature as the main tank.
• Acclimatization may take two hours to make sure pH doesn't rise too quickly and to reduce stress for the new horses.
• Once pH in the container is the same as that of the tank, the horses are removed, one by one in a cup, and placed into the main tank.

• A mix of frozen PE mysis from J&L Aquatics in Burnaby BC, Sally's Omega 3 Brine from the lfs.

Nutritional Supplements Used:

• One drop of Kent Marine Garlic Xtreme.
• One or two drops of American Marine Inc. Selcon.
• Several drops of Kent Marine Zoe.

Number of Feedings per Day:

• Feed once in the morning and once in the afternoon each day.

Feeding Station and Feeding Tools:

• Feeding station is a clear green glass ashtray (never used as an ashtray) placed in the centre of the aquarium on the sandbed.  It is surrounded by macroalgae and LR for hitching purposes.
• One large medicine dropper for introducing mysis and Omega 3 brine into the feeding station.
• One small Tupperware container with a tight fitting lid.

Feeding Method:

• Thaw and soak in Garlic Xtreme, Selcon and Zoe enough PE mysis, Hikari mysis and Sally's Omega 3 brine shrimp for morning and afternoon feedings.
• Add tankwater to the mysis, Omega 3 brine, additives mix so the medicine dropper can suction it up.
• Move seahorses from hitches that are far from the feeding station and gently guide them to the station.
• Slowly release mysis and Omega 3 brine into the feeding station so all seahorses can see the food.
• Watch with delight how the seahorses and some of the peppermint shrimp go wild for the food!
• Put lid on the leftover mysis and Omega 3 brine and store in refrigerator until the afternoon feeding.
• Before the afternoon feeding, suction out any leftover, then feed the rest of the mysis, Omega 3 brine, additives mixture with large medicine dropper.
• Before lights out, suction out any leftover food from the feeding station.

Training Seahorses to Eat from Feeding Station:

• When setting up a feeding station, make it the most inviting place in the tank. Surround it with the horses' favourite hitching algae or fake plants. Move stuff around if needed.
• After I set up my "inviting" feeding station, I rounded up the horses that weren't already at the station and allowed them to hitch. Then I dropped the mysis into the bowl. One or two of the horses were at first intrigued by the falling mysis, but once it hit the bottom of the bowl, they lost interest. With my medicine dropper feeder, I'd gently blow on the mysis to stir them up at bit. That got the horses' attention again. Some would go for the food, while others would just look at it. I'd keep lightly stirring the food or add a tiny bit more to get their attention even more. Eventually, at the first feeding all the horses would get the idea that THAT stuff was their food and they'd chow down.
• Took a week of rounding up the stray horses (by gently pulling them off their far away hitches and guiding them to the station) before they caught onto the idea that food was almost ALWAYS going to be there. Took some work on my end and didn't really like to unhitch a horse, but that's what worked for me.
• Now, I put food in the bowl and go. The horses that aren't at the feeding station will eventually mosey over and all are eating from the bowl very well now.

• No other fish are in our seahorse tank.

• Two astrea snails.
• Six nassarius snails.
• One turbo snail.
• One small bright orange starfish.
• Three peppermint shrimp.

• A few worms in the sandbed.
• A few bristleworms that are removed whenever they're vulnerable for removal.  I know I won't be able to get them all out, but a reduced population is my goal.

• No corals in our seahorse tank.

• Unidentified green and red macroalgae.

Dealing with Problem Algae:

• Have had no problem algae, but do remove over-growing macroalgae by pulling it out.

Acclimation Process of Macroalgae:

• Usually, very little acclimation is done for macroalgae.  I may simply add some tankwater to the macroalgae's bag, then place the macroalgae straight into the tank.

• No additional hitching areas or other decorations besides the LR and macroalgae in our seahorse tank.

• No sump used.

• No refugium used.

Hospital Tank:

• Plastic Living World Small Pals Pen, 2.25 gallon capacity.

Cover/Canopy and Stand:

• Small Pals Pen has a plastic top with holes in it for air exchange.  When in use, it sits on the kitchen counter.

Heating:

• Not heated with a heater, is small enough that the powerhead heats the tank.

Thermometer:

• One Hagen hang-in-tank glass thermometer which measures both F. and C.

• One Hagen 101 powerhead, on low setting, placed at the top of the back of the tank.

• Hospital tank is unlit.

• Hospital tank has no LR or substrate.

• For hitching there is a fake rock with fake plants.

Symptoms:

• First male had an air bulge in his pouch.

Diagnosis:

• Air in pouch syndrome.

Treatment/Medication Used:

• While firmly holding the seahorse underwater, I gently massaged the air out of his pouch.

Secondary Symptoms:

• However, I did not notice until the next day that he was listless and that during the massaging process, the skin on his pouch had been rubbed off. 

Secondary Diagnosis:

• Thought it might be a bacterial infection where the skin had been rubbed off.

Treatment/Medication Used:

• With his head underwater, I used a Q-tip to dry off the pouch area then applied Polysporin. 
• Later in the day he was still very listless and not eating, so he was put into the hospital tank with water from the main tank to minimize stress, and was to be treated with Seachem KanaPlex for for three days.  However, he died on the second day of treatment.

Tank Maintenance During Treatment:

• Each morning, the half the water was siphoned out making sure any leftover food and detritus was removed.  Water from the main tank replaced the water removed and more medication was given.

Outcome of Treatment:

• The male seahorse's injuries were too severe for him to recover, and treatment was unsuccessful.  I felt very, very upset that he died.

 

Health Problem #2, May 2003:

Symptoms:

• About a week later, the second male was hiding. listless and not eating. 

Diagnosis:

• Thought it might be a bacterial infection.

Medication Used:

• He was immediately placed in the hospital tank with water from the main tank to minimize stress, and was to be treated with Seachem KanaPlex for for three days.  However, he died on the second day of treatment.

Tank Maintenance During Treatment:

• Each morning, the half the water was siphoned out making sure any leftover food and detritus was removed.  Water from the main tank replaced the water removed, and more medication was given.

Outcome of Treatment:

• Two days into treatment, this seahorse also died.  That made two seahorses dead within a week and a half.  I was so upset over the second death that I was contemplating finding new homes for my remaining females.

 

Health Problem #3, June 2003:

Symptoms:

• Thinner of our two remaining female seahorses looked like the knobby spines on her back were disappearing.

Diagnosis:

• Thought it might be a bacterial infection.

Medication Used:

• Placed her in the hospital tank using water from the main tank to reduce stress.
• Cut one Maracyn tablet into ten pieces for proper daily dosage in a two gallon tank.

Tank Maintenance During Treatment:

• Each morning, the half the water was siphoned out making sure any leftover food and detritus was removed.  Water from the main tank replaced the water removed, and more medication was given.
• After the afternoon feeding, leftover food and detritus was suctioned out with the feeding dropper.

Outcome of Treatment:

• Treatment lasted five days, and the female seahorse continued eating throughout treatment - a very good sign for me. 
• On day four, some fuzzy stuff was on her back where her knobby spines were affected. I gently basted off the fuzz and suctioned it out of the tank.
• On the evening of the fifth day of treatment, she was well enough to return to the main tank.
• Her treatment was successful and she continues to thrive weeks later.

 

Health Problem #4, June 2003:

Symptoms:

• Noticed redness on the back of one of the females for three days.  On the third day, tiny bubbles appeared on the red area. , and cyanobacteria growth was the suspected problem.

Diagnosis:

• Cyanobacteria growth was the suspected problem.

Medication Used:

• No medication was used.
• Seahorse was treated in the main tank by using the feeding medicine dropper and blowing water on her back.  The red stuff just flew off her back indicating it was, after all, cyano growing on her.

Tank Maintenance During Treatment:

• Since the seahorse was still in the main tank, no extra maintenance was done.

Outcome of Treatment:

• All the cyanobacteria was blown off her back and she showed little sign of distress during treatment.
• Will continue to observe this seahorse for further cyano growth.

Hospital Tank Maintenance:

• When not in use, the hospital tank and hitching posts are thoroughly cleaned in tapwater, dried, then stored in a plastic bag.

• No quarantine tank used.

• RO water made from a Kent Marine TFC 24 gpd RO unit.

Brands of Salt Mix Used:

• Either Kent or Instant Ocean salt mix is used.  Usually buy whichever of the two is least expensive when more salt is needed.

NSW Mixing Container Size:

• Five gallon covered pail.

Aeration and Heating:

• One Hagen 101 powerhead for aeration.
• One Tronic 50 watt heater with heater guard.
• Heated to 73 F. to match the temperature of the tank.

Length of Time Aerated and Heated Before Using:

• RO water is aerated and heated for two or three days before salt mix is added, then aerated and heated at least overnight.

Equipment Used for Water Changes:

• One turkey baster to baste rock, sandbed and macroalgae to lift detritus into the water column so foams can trap and remove detritus.
• One small plastic medicine bottle to place over foam on filter intake during filtration system removal to prevent accumulated detritus from settling back into the tank.
• One 2 litre plastic container to hold filtration system and powerhead that are removed and cleaned during water change.
• One five gallon pail to receive outgoing changewater.
• One  6' hose for siphoning two gallons of water from the main tank.

In our experience, seahorses are very difficult to understand and to care for.  There have been times I wished we had not gotten them, especially when our two males died within the first two months of keeping seahorses in May 2003. 

However, several days after successfully treating one female for what I believe was bacterial infection on the knobby spines on her back, I was back in the saddle ordering three more females for our seahorse community.

Feeding Station, Mixed Food a Big Hit:

Since the addition of the feeding station in mid-June 2003, using two types of frozen food, as well as learning that handling them carefully to get them to the feeding station, our seahorses have been doing much better.  I can tell by their full stomachs that they are eating much better than when they didn't have the station to come back to for more food during the day.

All the tank's inhabitants have quickly caught on that food is available for the taking.  Two of our three peppermint shrimp have become bold enough to scavenge the feeding station soon after the food has been dropped into place.  Nassarius snails, those acrobatic little cuties, also find their way into the station to feed. 

My least favourite tankmates, bristleworms, also take advantage of the feeding station.  Whenever they are seen feeding, I try to remove them with a pair of tweezers.  Have been successful in removing a few large and small bristleworms too!

Cyanobacteria Growing on Seahorse's Back:

In late June 2003, I noticed red along the spine of our seahorse that had had the bacterial infection.  At first, I thought she was changing colour, or something innocuous.  A few days after the redness was noticed, I observed tiny bubbles along the redness.  I used the medicine dropper feeder to gently blow the stuff off, which I believe was cyanobacteria.  Don't know if the cyano would cause her problems if left on, but having blown it off I feel better that she will not suffer possible infections had it been left in place.

Seahorses' Eyes:

While watching our H. whitei eat this morning, June 30, 2003, I noticed that seahorse eyes move independently from each other.  I hadn't known that before...