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Friday May 30, 2008

Test Sculpting a Large Tree Base - Part One
photos taken May 30, 2008

Materials used for testing.
All materials except the Lepage glue were used in this first test.


After the goop was thoroughly mixed,
I applied it to the test wood with my hands.
Latex gloves were used to both mix the goop and apply it.


I used a small wooden stick to create a bark-like effect
to make the tree trunk look more realistic.


The back of my test tree trunk.

 
►Materials used in the first test:
  • 3 parts drywall compound (approximate)
  • 2 parts sawdust from cutting the plywood base and wood frame sections (approximate)
  • 1 part eggshell latex paint (approximate)
  • plastic container to mix materials
  • paint stirring stick for initial mixing
  • latex gloves to protect hands from the paint
  • unpainted wood to simulate the joints of the wood frame sections when they'll be fixed in place side by side on the Village
  • a real tree twig to simulate a tree branch
  • newspaper to keep materials from getting all over the work surface - in this case, the kitchen countertop
  • wet and dry rags to clean up spills
  • kitchen sink to clean up afterward

I'm thinking that once the wood frames that will hold the Plexiglas and plywood background are fitted together, I'll want to disguise the wood as large trees.  Initially, I thought I'd carve the wood to make it look like a tree trunk, but decided that would be beyond my abilities.

After extensive research on the DIY threads on model railroad message boards, I thought I'd try my own recipe for sculpting goop based on some of the recipes I'd read about.

I got my materials ready, added paint to the sawdust, then drywall compound to that, then mixed it all with a paint stirring stick from the paint store.  After some stick mixing, I realized I would get a more thoroughly mixed product if I mixed it by hand (wearing latex gloves to protect my hands from the paint).

I didn't quite know how much of the materials to add, but wanted to get a goop that wouldn't be runny or droopy.  As it turned out, the goop that I ended up with was just what I was looking for.  It was firm enough to sculpt, but didn't dry quickly.  It's only a guess, but I think the sawdust soaking up the moisture from the drywall compound coupled with the paint slowed the goop from drying quickly.

It's cool and humid in our house today.  After five hours, the sculpted goop was still soft and somewhat pliable, so I put it outside in the sun and wind.  The thin parts are drying nicely after about an hour.  I'm afraid that drying the test goop too quickly will result in cracking.  However, if this is just a test, it would be good to know how well the goop holds up under fast drying conditions.

The next time I test this goop, I'll add dark paint to so I can see that the paint is thoroughly mixed into the goop.  I'll also try making a taller tree and making up a much larger batch of the goop.
 

Tuesday June 3, 2008

photos taken June 3, 2008

The tree trunk goop has taken three days to fully dry.
It has cracked at the base on this side.


The base on this side has pulled away
from the wood and has not cracked.
The next tree I make will have paint beneath the base
to minimize cracking.


A real tree trunk is not green.
I painted this test trunk green because that was the colour
of paint I had nearby.


The crack is still visible even after coating the trunk
with three layers of latex eggshell paint.
I'm not completely satisfied with how shiny the paint appears.
On my next test tree trunk, I'm planning on using
a mixture of latex eggshell and craft paint.
The craft paint, which is water based, has a flatter finish
and I'm hoping the two different finishes
will give the trunk a less shiny look and still be very durable.
 

2007-2008 © Beverly Wladyka Edmonton AB Canada